NEW YORK, NY — I’ve posted several reports on the growth of the tap wine movement in New York establishments. Now, New York magazine has come up with a citywide update. It begins:
There was a time when wine on tap was considered a loony West Coast notion, like est or Pinkberry. Today, we’re fairly awash in the stuff, with more on the way.
“I think every new restaurant that opens will dedicate at least one beer line to wine,” predicts Terroir partner Paul Grieco, an early adopter who’s been pouring a high-acid Finger Lakes Riesling since spring. This week alone brings two new converts: Soho “winepub” Burger & Barrel, and Michael White’s Osteria Morini, where antique barrel heads artfully camouflage the mundane business of plastic tubing and stainless- steel kegs.
There is logic, though, behind what could easily pass for a marketing gimmick. Reducing packaging (bottles, labels, corks, crates, foil) saves money, for producer and consumer alike. Displacing oxygen with argon or nitrogen, which “pushes” the wine, keeps it fresh for months. And finally, reusable kegs minimize the carbon footprint. Or at least they do when the wine is local, from places like Brooklyn’s Red Hook Winery, or the Finger Lakes grape source for the all-keg upstart Gotham Project, which sells to Grand Central Oyster Bar, Choptank, and Blue Ribbon Brooklyn. Imports from Europe and California are another story—one that the fledgling industry’s intrepid producers, distributors, and sommeliers are scripting now.
Go here for the full rundown.
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