NEW YORK — Sara Jenkins (right) — the chef/author/restaurateur Mario Batali said “is one of the few chefs in America who understands Italy and how Italians eat” — is in the process of creating her latest restaurant, Porsena, which opens Thursday of this week in the East Village.
That’s a detail-mad undertaking, with decisions on menu, staff, decor, suppliers, pricing, licensing and more things to balance. In a city in which there are, conservatively, a gajillion other places customers can eat, Getting It Right is of paramount importance to be a success. That’s why her musing on The Atlantic magazine’s website about selecting a wine list for the new space is so interesting.
As she confesses:
“Creating the wine list is humbling and challenging. I love Italian wine. I’ve worked for a winery in Italy before. I can explain malolactic fermentation. But I never really paid attention to the details. Wine is like Italian politics — the minute you think you have a grasp on it, it changes again. I’ve always been happy to find a few wines or varietals I liked and stick with those. But here I’ve got to write a list that will cover a broader swath of Italy then I know, yet I want the list to be a reflection of my personal taste. I’m scared about making the wrong choices. Today I just need to bite the bullet and sign off on the decisions made so far. Changes can be made later. … “
Go here to read the entire blog posting.
Porsena is located at 21–23 East 7th Street, near Third Avenue.
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